3D printer spare parts and repair

3D printers have problems and breakdowns like any other equipment, so you should know how to carry out proper maintenance to delay the appearance of problems, as well as knowing the possible solutions to breakdowns and spare parts for 3D printers that you have at your disposal to replace the damaged element when necessary. All that you will learn with this definitive guide.

*IMPORTANT ANNOUNCEMENT: There are many types of 3D printers, so there may be slight differences between them when diagnosing and repairing. Also, some printers can be somewhat complex, such as industrial ones. Therefore, when you do not know how to act, it is best to refer to the manual of your specific equipment model or the technical service of your printer brand. This guide is especially geared toward home printers.

Table of Contents

1 The best spare parts for 3D printers
2 Maintenance of 3D printers
3 Guide to diagnosing and repairing common 3D printer problems
4 More information

The best spare parts for 3D printers

Here are some recommendations of spare parts for 3D printers to guide you, although not all of them are compatible with any 3D printer model:

Brackets / Carriage Plate

Bed

PEI sheet to improve adhesion and part removal

Leveling

print base plate

Thermal paste

Extruder or hotend

Nozzles

PTFE tube

pneumatic connector

Power supply for 3D printer

Motor

Toothed belt

Pulleys

bearing or bearing

Heat dissipator

Ventilador

FEP sheet

Lubricant

thermistor

LCD Display

UV exposure lamp

Resin tank

Additional accessories and tools

Clog Nozzle Cutter Kit

tips for messes in the extrusion nozzle, eliminating obstacles or possible clots of solidified filament that may be blocking the exit.

Extraction and cleaning tool kit

Set of tools that will help you with the tasks of cleaning, removal of parts, and repair of your 3D printer.

Kit of funnels and filters for resin

Kit of funnels and filters to pour the resin and remove solid particles. They will help you both to put it in the printer deposits and to return it to the boat if you want to keep it.

Dry and safe filament storage

You can find vacuum bags to store the filaments without humidity or dust when you have several spools and you will not use them for a long time. In the case of resin, the best way to store it is in its own pot.

On the other hand, humidity can affect the filaments 3D printing. This is why drying boxes are sold that will restore the good "health" of your filaments, thus saving a wet filament.

Maintenance of 3D printers

: Calibration. Author: Stemfie3D

: Calibration. Author: paulo@kiefe.com

: Calibration. Author: Stemfie3D

: Calibration. Author: Stemfie3D

: Lubrication. Author: paulo@kiefe.com

: Calibration. Author: Stemfie3D

: Calibration. Author: paulo@kiefe.com

: Failed part due to poor calibration and set-up

Prevention is always better than repair. That's why it's so important perform good maintenance of 3D printing equipment. With adequate maintenance, the breakage of parts and their deterioration could be delayed, in addition to preventing some problems. In short, the effort to maintain a 3D printer will translate into greater productivity and financial savings in the long run.

*IMPORTANTNote: Always read the manual that came with the 3D printer for proper handling and maintenance. If you do not have this manual, download the PDF version on the official website of the manufacturer of your model. You should perform most tasks with the 3D printer turned off and unplugged to avoid electrocution, and in cases where this is not possible, such as when the extruder must be heated, be very careful not to burn yourself.

Leveling or Calibration of the bed

Keep the bed snug it is a priority. It should be done periodically. Some 3D printers include automatic or semi-automatic leveling (from the control menu of the printer itself), so you will avoid doing it manually. But in cases where it is not included, you will have to manually calibrate it to avoid sagging, uneven first coats, or poor adhesion.

It is important that before leveling you make sure that the surface of the bed is very clean, and whenever you can it is better to do the hot leveling. In this way, it will be at the printing temperature and you will prevent it from being misaligned by the expansion of the materials. Although, in general, you will not notice much difference between the cold or hot calibration.

For manual leveling You must use the wheels or adjustment screws that printers usually have on the base. It is only necessary to move them to one side or the other to raise or lower the corners and leave it level. Note that you should reference 5 points, the four corners and the center. And if, for example, the layers are 0.2 mm, the distance between the extruder nozzle and the bed at all points should be between 0.1 and 0.2 mm.

Some users use a trick for leveling, and it is to put the printer to print an object and lower the speed to the maximum while printing the first layer. And during the process, they check the uneven thicknesses of the layer and level the bed manually until it is level.

Remember to level the bed at least once after a hardware upgrade, on first start-up, when using high shrinkage materials such as nylon or polycarbonate, or when installing PEI sheets.

Axis Calibration

This can also be done using some functions of the printer itself more easily, or manually. Sometimes a bad calibration is not just a matter of settings, but of XYZ axes with problems or wear, so they will need replacement. To check the calibration, you can download a calibration cube and print it to see the results.

Maintain good adhesion

La first layer they affect the rest of the part being printed. In addition, if there is not a good adhesion, they can be detached or moved during printing, leading to deformations (especially in materials such as ABS). Therefore, the surface must be as clean as possible:

Delete dust, organic oils from our skin when we touch the bed, and accumulated dirt with a microfiber or cotton cloth. You can use cleaning alcohol like IPA for beds that are made of glass.
If you use stickers or tapes To improve the adhesion of the bed, there may be some glue residue that you should scrape off and wash with soap and water in a sink (removing the bed from the 3D printer). Also, you should replace the adhesive if there are any flaws that could affect the first layer.

Timing Belt Tension Adjustment

Many home 3D printers use timing belts on at least 2 axes. These straps are lightweight and allow for efficient movement. However, for this movement to be optimal they need to tighten up from time to time to avoid problems:

loose: When it is too loose it can deteriorate and wear the teeth, plus it will not respond as quickly to sudden changes in speed and direction, which affects the quality of the part.
High voltage: It will cause it to break (although many are made of rubber and reinforced with fiberglass or steel) or force other parts, such as bearings or pulleys, in addition to forcing the motors more. And this can also lead to layer defects, inaccurate dimensions, etc.

To properly tension them, follow the manual for your particular model. They usually have a built in belt tensioner which is very easy to use. you just have to tighten a screw to do this, having one on each strap you have.

Greased

It is very important that do not use products such as 3 in 1, type WD-40 and similar, as not only will this not properly lubricate your printer, but it could also remove any remaining lubricant.

There are many different types of greases and lubricants, make sure it is the one recommended by the manufacturer of your 3D printer, since there may be some better than others. Some of the most popular ones tend to use white lithium greases, dry lubricants such as some based on silicone or Teflon, etc.

The lubrication or greasing process should be apply to moving parts that need it, thus avoiding overheating of the motors due to friction, surface imperfections in the print, or noise:

Rods with bearings or linear bearings
rails or rails
truck skids
Z axis screws

If you have spent a long time without lubricating its components, it is likely that you will have to replace some parts because they will not be in perfect condition.

Cleaning of the nozzle

It is one of the most important parts and, despite that, it is often neglected until it becomes clogged. The extruder nozzle must also be clean before start printing. This will eliminate remains of solid filament that have been stuck and that may affect future printing. For this you can use a nozzle cleaning kit or cleaning filament.

Be careful when using metal brushes and other utensils, since touching certain powered parts of the 3D printer can short circuit and damage the motherboard.

Some recommendations are:

You may also have noticed that some filament 3D printers “drool” a little before you start printing. That is, they drop a thread of molten filament that you should remove from the platform before it sticks and can truncate the first layer of the part to be printed.
Our external grout stains are also important. It is not an aesthetic issue, it is to prevent the nozzle from deteriorating or the room from beginning to smell of burnt plastic. For proper cleaning, heat the extruder and then you must brush with a bristle brush from the cleaning kit. You can also use the help of tweezers or a thick cloth, being careful not to burn yourself.
Also clean the heater block.
If you suspect there is an obstruction, you should do cold extraction, if you can. If not, you can use a high temperature filament such as ABS or PETG to try to unclog, or the specific cleaning filaments that exist on the market. To avoid these jam issues, always remember to set the proper fusing temperature for the material being used.

Thanks to this maintenance you will be able to avoid filament dripping, surface grains in the printed parts, obstructions, suppuration, and also problems such as underextrusion or overextrusion.

Filament Maintenance

The filament must also be well maintained, or rather, it must be well preserved. Humidity and dust are two of the factors that most affect the filament. Poor storage of the filament can lead to clogging of the nozzle, suppuration, increased friction in the tubes through which the filament travels, and shredding due to humidity.

To do this, you can use the drying boxes and vacuum bags mentioned above, as well as the use of cabins with air filters for your 3D printer.

Nozzle replacement

From time to time it is necessary replace nozzle of extrusion of your 3D printer. A problem that resin ones do not have, although these others have other drawbacks such as changing light sources. Sometimes checking that the grout needs replacing is as simple as looking at its appearance, as it will have lost its original color and will show stains or surface deterioration.

It will depend on the use, although if the use is frequent, it is recommended to change it every 3 or 6 months. When only PLA is used, the durability of these parts is usually much longer.

Remember that you can find two types of nozzles:

Brass: They are very cheap and good for non-abrasive filaments, such as PLA and ABS.
hardened steel: It is the best option for other more abrasive compounds, delaying the need to change the nozzle.

Replacing this nozzle is so tailored such as unscrewing the existing one and screwing the new one onto the extrusion head. Of course, they must be compatible.

bed cleaning

It's always a good idea clean the print bed with a cotton cloth after finishing each print. Passing the cloth will be enough, although there may be cases in which stains or marks may remain. In that case, you can use a scouring pad or sponge and use some soap and water, removing the bed so as not to wet the 3D printer. Before putting the bed back, make sure it is dry.

External cleaning (general)

If you are going to clean the external parts of the printer, use a microfiber or cotton cloth lint-free. You can use a cleaning product for this, but make sure that if they are polycarbonate or acrylic surfaces, such as the covers of SLA, LCD and DLP type printers, that you do not use products with alcohol or ammonia, as it will damage the surfaces.

This type of cleaning important to prevent dirt from accumulating on the rails or other parts and causing overheating, inaccurate movements, part malformations, vibrations and strange noises when printing.

Internal cleaning

Clean what is not seen It is also important for good maintenance. Some hidden components, such as electronic boards, fans and heatsinks, ports, etc., can accumulate large amounts of dust and dirt, causing common problems such as:

Poor cooling due to the fact that the fans do not turn well due to dirt on the shaft or bearings. And even that the sink is clogged.
Clusters that can create short circuit problems in electronic systems. It can also accumulate moisture from organic materials in dirt and damage the electronic board.
Buildup on gears and motors preventing smooth operation.

To withdraw from your avoid it, it's as simple as using a small brush, paintbrush or brush and cleaning the surface of these components. You can also use a small vacuum cleaner and even a CO2 spray to clean more inaccessible areas.

clean the resin

In the case of resin stains or resin marks, you cannot use water or any household cleaner to remove them. To clean you can use a microfiber or cotton cloth to clean the plate. And if it is a persistent stain, use some isopropyl alcohol to soak the cloth.

Update 3D printer firmware

And last but not least, you should also verify that the firmware of your 3D printer is up to date. If you don't have the latest version, you should update this one. Many popular printer manufacturers typically release releases every 6 months or so.

These updates may bring some improvements on the table:

Bug fixes from previous versions
Better performance
More features
Security patches

In order to update the firmware of your 3D printer, you'll need:

A PC from which to download and install the firmware update.
Download and install Arduino IDE, in case your 3D printer is based on an Arduino board.
USB cable to connect the printer and the PC.
Have the technical information of your 3D printer at hand (mm of XYZ steppers and extruders, maximum axis travel distance, feed rate, maximum acceleration, etc.).
The downloaded file with the new firmware version. It will depend on your brand and model of printer. You should look for the right one, but always download from official sites, not third party websites.

here are some links of interest for different software to update and firmware:

Guide to diagnosing and repairing common 3D printer problems

Although a perfect maintenance is done, sooner or later systems fail or break and that is when you should know how to diagnose problems and how to repair your 3D printer. Likewise, you must bear in mind that an SLA is not the same as a DLP, or other types of technologies. Each one has its own problems. Here the most frequent problems are treated, many of them of filament or resin printers for domestic use, which are the most widespread.

*NOTE: You should only proceed with a repair if you really know what you are doing. Take into account the warranty terms of your equipment, since if you tamper with it you could lose said warranty. Remember to always turn off and unplug your printer to avoid electric shocks, as well as make sure it is cold to avoid burns. Of course, if you are going to handle resins, we advise you to wear protective glasses, a mask for possible vapors, and latex gloves.

Why is my 3D printer not printing?

This problem is one of the most possible causes has, since it can be almost anything. Please check the following:

Verify that the printer is installed and connected correctly.
Check that the power to the printer is correct and that it is turned on.
Do you have filament? One of the most absurd causes is usually the lack of filament. Reload a new filament and try again.
If there is filament, try to manually push the filament. Sometimes there may be a problem area of the tube that it does not pass through well and that force will be enough to pass that area.
Also look to see if the filament feed motor is turning and the push gear is turning.
Look at the printer screen to see if there is any useful information or error code to see what it means.

The nozzle is at an inappropriate distance from the bed

Whether the nozzle is too close to the bed not to let out the extruded plastic, as if the nozzle is too far away and prints literally in the air, it is a bed calibration problem. You can see the maintenance section on leveling to solve it.

Filament bitten or missing sections

Cheaper printers often use a toothed gear to push the filament back and forth, but these gears could be damaging the filament as they go, and even cutting it. Then:

Be sure to check the gear for proper bite, or make sure the gear hasn't come apart or snapped.
Filament guidance system with problems. Check:
- Direct Extruder - The motor pulley may be malfunctioning and needs to be replaced, or the gear teeth may be worn and need to be replaced. It may also be that the cam is not exerting enough pressure.
- Bowden: This may be because the screws that tighten the filament are too loose, or the bearing that pushes the filament is not turning smoothly. Tighten the bolts or replace the bearing.
Improper extrusion temperature for the material used.
Extrusion speed too high, try to reduce it.
Use a smaller diameter nozzle than the one configured in the print settings.

The printer leaves the printed part in the middle

When you are printing a part and the 3D printer stops mid print, without finishing the piece, may be due to:

The filament has run out.
There was a power outage during the printing process.
Damaged PTFE tube that will have to be replaced.
Bitten filament (see section dedicated to this problem).
Engine overheating. Some printers have systems that stop the process to prevent further damage.
Low pressure in the extruder. Try to squeeze the filament against the motor, or that the cam is exerting the correct pressure.

Small details are not printed

The part prints fine, but the small details are missing, they are not printed. This problem can be caused by:

Nozzle diameter too large. Use one with a smaller diameter. Note that the resolution is usually 80% of the diameter of the nozzle at most.
Make sure the software is set correctly for the diameter of the nozzle you are using. There may be a mismatch. You could even set a slightly lower nozzle than the one you have installed to "trick" the printer.
Redesign the piece.

Poor adhesion of the piece

When the piece does not stick to the bed, the temperature of the bed may not be correct, or the material of the bed surface or the material being used for printing may be incorrect. Other possible causes are:

Nozzle too far from bed. Adjust the height.
First layer printing too fast. Slow down.
If you have layer ventilation, it may be cooling the first layer too quickly and causing this problem.
The temperature of the bed is not adequate, set the correct temperature for the material you are using.
You are printing with a material that needs a heated bed and you do not have a heated base. (you can install an external one)
Lack of Brim, those fins that are created when the surface of the printed figure is too small. These fins improve grip. You can also make a raft, or a printed base under the piece.

Unfilled holes in the last layer

When you see empty gaps, like layers not completely filled, but it only affects the last layer, so:

May be due to underextrusion (see below).
Due to a shortage of layers in the finish. You will need to use more layers in your design.
Low fill setting (%). Low settings are sometimes used to save filament, but it causes this problem.
Check that you have not used a honeycomb pattern for the model.

Unfilled voids in the layers or thin parts of the part

When missing plastic on the walls or thin parts of your room, it is probably because of:

Poorly adjusted gap fill settings. Increase the fill value to improve the finish.
Perimeter width too small. Increase the height of the perimeters in your printer settings. A suitable value for most laminators is usually to put the same measurement as the diameter of the nozzle, for example, if you have a 1.75 mm, put 1.75.

Extruder motor overheated

This motor works very hard during printing, constantly pushing the filament back and forth. This makes it hot, and sometimes it can get too hot, especially when the electronics do not have systems to prevent this type of problem.

Some motor drivers they usually have a thermal cut-off system to interrupt power if the temperature is too high. That will make the X and Y axis motors rotate and move the nozzle or extruder head, but the extruder motor won't move at all, so it won't print anything.

Check the refrigeration and the fan in this part, and allow a few moments for the motor to cool down. Some printers have automatic systems that turn off the printer to let it cool down and prevent further damage.

Warping or deformation: causes and solutions

This problem is easily identified, since it is when the figure tends to deform and have curved or misshapen corners after printing. This problem is usually due to temperature differences during the manufacturing process caused by a wrong temperature setting, or the heating system.

It usually happens more frequently in ABS, although it can be corrected using ABS+. If you are going to use conventional ABS, you should consider using a fixative such as 3DLac, and also create Brim around the piece, that kind of support wings that will later be removed.

Also check that there is no cold drafts in the room, as this can cause the filament to solidify more quickly and the material to retract off the bed.

3D printer repair with stringing or fraying

El fraying or those annoying strands Strands of filament sticking to a figure is another common problem. It is usually due to poor tuning adjustments, temperature, inadequate retraction, or the type of filament. If you have ever used a hot glue gun, you will surely have noticed that these threads tend to be frequent, and something similar happens in 3D printers.

To withdraw from your solve this problem, check that the retraction is active, that the retraction distance is correct and that the retraction speed is also correct. With materials such as ABS and PLA, a retraction speed of 40-60mm/s, and distances of 0.5-1mm for direct extrusion, is usually good. In the case of Bowden type extruders, then it should be lowered to speeds of 30-50 mm/s and distances of 2 mm. There is no exact rule, so you will have to try until you get it right.

Check that speed and temperature of fusion are suitable for the material that you are using, and that the filaments are not wet. This can also cause such problems, especially when the temperature is too high.

On the other hand, it can also be due to head movements too big. Some printers have features like Avoid Crossing Perimeters to avoid crossing open spaces and leaving these threads, which is also an option if enabled.

The nozzle is clogged

Our nozzles tend to get clogged, and it is one of the most irritating and frequent problems in FDM type 3D printers. It is usually detected by a strange sound in the extrusion head and suddenly the filament stops coming out of the nozzle.

Our possible causes and solutions are:

Poor filament quality, so you should try another better quality filament.
Incorrect extrusion temperature. Check that the hotend thermistor is in place and that the setting temperature is correct.
Defective filament segment. Pull out the filament, cut about 20-30cm to remove the problem part, and reload. It would also be a good idea to run a needle or piercing tip through to clean the nozzle.
If you work in environments with a lot of dust, such as an industrial warehouse, a workshop, etc., you should use an Oiler, that is, a sponge with a little oil to clean the filament before it reaches the extruder.

Layer shifting or layer displacement

It is usually due to a displacement in one of the layers on the X or Y axis. Possible causes and solutions for this problem are:

The hotend is moving too fast and the motor is missing steps. Speed down.
Incorrect acceleration parameters. If you have tampered with the firmware acceleration values, you may have entered the wrong ones. Fixing this can be a bit trickier, and you should check with your equipment supplier.
Mechanical or electronic problem, such as problems in the tension of the toothed belts, or problems in the control drivers of the stepper motors. If you have recently replaced the drivers and since then the scrolling has started, you may not have chosen the correct mA.

blots

When you see plastic stains or smears on the surface of an object, as if small portions were stuck to the piece, it can be due to two causes:

Excessive extrusion temperature that causes drooling or dripping on the part and leaves these excesses. Set the appropriate temperature for the material used.
Wrong setting of filament retraction.

Excess plastic in the form of a drop

When you see that the piece has some excesses of plastic on the surface and these excesses are in the form of drops (smudges have more chaotic shapes), you'll need to check the extruder or hotend elements, as they are most likely loose:

Poorly threaded nozzle (some aluminum or brass nozzles will not accept over-tightening or stripping due to soft material).
Rod not tightened properly.

scars on the surface

You'll likely see some markings like scratches or grooves on the surface of the object. In this case, it is likely that the nozzle or nozzle is rubbing due to:

Homming Z poorly adjusted, and the nozzle is too close.
Overextrusion (see following sections).

under extrusion

When the extrusion is below normal, does not extrude enough filament, a problem is generated in the pieces, without filling the perimeters well or they come out with spaces between layers and imperfections. The reasons for this problem and the solution are:

Wrong filament diameter. Make sure you are using the correct filament for your printer (1.75mm, 2.85mm, 3mm,…).
Increases the extruder multiplier parameter (extrision multiplier). This manages to vary the amount of extruded material. For example, if you go from value 1 to 1.05, you will be extruding 5% more. For PLA a 0.9 is recommended, for ABS a 1.0.

overextrusion

A excessive extrusion it produces too much filament, causing the layer to also have problems and generate poor results in general. You will most likely see that the top of the piece has extra plastic. The causes can be the same as those of underextrusion, but by parameter values at the opposite extreme (see the previous section and adjust the parameters in reverse, that is, lowering the value instead of raising it).

Nozzle priming

Some extruders have problems with plastic leaks when they are kept at a high temperature, since the molten plastic that remains inside the ducts and nozzle tends to leak. This would require a derating or priming of the nozzle to prevent that excess from damaging the print. A simple solution is to clean the nozzle well before printing to remove any debris that may be left inside.

There are some printers that have programs or functions specific for it. Others choose to try to print a circle around the part to get rid of all that plastic.

Undulations

If you see that the piece has ripples on the sides, and that are repeated throughout the entire structure of the object, then it could be due to looseness or linear movement that is not straight on the Z axis. You can check the status of said axis or rods, check that they are straight, that they are concentric with the motors, that the nuts and bolts are well fixed.

Overheating in printed parts

When the printed part has details that are they overheat too much and the plastic melts and deforms, then it may be due to:

Insufficient layer cooling. Upgrade cooling or add a separate cooling system.
Temperature too high. Set the correct extrusion temperature for the material you are using.
Prints too fast. Lower the print speed.
If none of the above has worked, you could try printing multiple pieces at once. This will allow more time for the layers to cool down.

Delamination in resin curing

La delamination when it occurs in a resin 3D printer it is due to causes other than delamination in filament printers. This type of problem causes cured layers to separate from each other, or solidified resin remains floating in the resin tank. Regarding the most frequent causes:

Problems with the orientation or organization of the model or problems with the supports.
Printing paused for more than an hour.
Old resin tank that needs to be replaced.
The build platform is loose.
The optical curing surfaces have become contaminated and must be cleaned or replaced.

Printing vacuum in resin printer

When you see empty holes In some convex face-down printing parts, it may be due to a suction cup effect, trapping air during printing and causing that hole to not be filled with resin. Also, it can leave traces of solidified resin in the tank, so it would be advisable to filter the resin.

To withdraw from your correct this problem:

Absence of drainage holes in the 3D models of hollow or convex parts. Drill holes in the 3D design so there is drainage during printing.
Model orientation problems. Try to prevent the hole from being submerged by avoiding filling it with air.

undeveloped trait

It is another somewhat strange problem, but it occurs in some resin 3D printers. can be seen voids in interior parts or some undeveloped features., usually with crater shapes, rough surfaces, sharp edges, or a layer of cured resin at the bottom of the resin tank.

only occurs on SLA printers when a part of the part sticks to the bottom of the resin tank and partially blocks the curing laser or light source, preventing it from reaching the next layer. And the solution can be:

Debris or damage to the resin tank. We will have to see if they are just remains that can be removed by filtering the resin and cleaning the tank or if they are damage that will force you to replace the tank.
It can also be due to the use of cloudy Standard resins. Try another type of resin in this case.
Check the optical surfaces, that they are not dirty or contaminated. This could also cause this problem.
It is likely that it could also be due to an orientation or support problem of the 3D model. It must be reviewed in the CAD design.

Holes or cuts

when they are appreciated orifices (such as small tunnels through the part) or courteous in some parts regions, it can be due to several causes:

Debris on resin tank surface or optical window, or other optical surfaces. This will force you to clean the affected part to fix the problem.
Scratches or imperfections on the surface of the resin tank or on any optical element. This would make it necessary to replace the scratched element.

Cracks appear in the first layer

If you appreciate a kind of open cracks or gills in the first layer, as if each printed line detaches from its adjacent line or detaches from the base:

The height of the first layer is too high. Adjust the build platform.
First layer temperature too low. Set the proper temperature for the material you are using.
If none of the above, increase the line width of the first layer.

Bare

El naked it is a defect in resin printers. They form a kind of scales or horizontal profiles that protrude from the surfaces of the piece. Some can become detached from the piece during the printing process, others remain attached. The ones that break off can float in the resin tank and block the exposure, causing other layers to fail. Your solution would go through:

The resin is expired.
Damage, debris, or cloudiness in the resin tank. Check/replace tank and filter resin.
Resin flow limited by poor orientation of the model or supports that are too dense.

Roughness or rash

You are likely to see finished parts with surface roughness, such as wrinkles, uneven trims, bumps on one or more sides of the piece, etc. This problem of resin printers is due to:

Expired resin.
Damage, debris, or cloudiness in the resin tank. Check/replace tank and filter resin.
Resin flow limited by poor orientation of the model or supports that are too dense.
Contaminated optical surfaces to be cleaned.

Overcompression

The term over-compression describes a flaw caused in resin-printed parts. It occurs when the space between the build platform and the elastic layer, or flexible film, of the resin tank is reduced and causes the initial layers are too thin, so they will look squashed. It also makes it more difficult to separate the piece from the base, or leave flat bases and shorter edges than normal. To fix this, check the placement of the foil.

Lack of adhesion in resin 3D printer

When impressions are partially or completely separated from the base printing is indicating that there is an adhesion problem. Something that may be caused by:

A cured resin plate at the bottom of the tank (lack of full adhesion) to be removed.
Print without a suitable base or surface.
The first layer of grip is too small to support the weight of the part.
Damage, debris, or cloudiness in the resin tank. Filter, clean, or change resin.
Contaminated optical surfaces to be cleaned.
Excessive space between the printing base and the elastic layer or elastic film of the resin tank.

Silhouettes on the printing base (resin 3D printer)

It is likely that at times you have come across silhouettes of the pieces printed on the printing base. A layer or rest with a shape adhered to the base and that the rest of the part does not print or may have come off and be in the resin tank. In these cases, the common causes are:

Optical surfaces contaminated with some type of dirt, debris, or dust. Keep in mind that although these particles can block the beam, the first layers usually have a longer curing process, so it is possible that these first layers will form and not the rest of the part.
It can also be due to debris, damage or turbidity in the resin tank.
Also check the condition of the acrylic window of the resin tank.
And the main mirror.

The leveling screw has reached its limit

It is likely that when trying to level the base you will find that the adjustment screw has reached its limit in one of its directions of travel. In that case, you can recover some travel by unscrewing the screw that makes contact with the end of the Z axis stroke. Be careful with the base if it is made of glass, since the nozzle could drop suddenly and break it.

Interpret 3D printer error codes

If you see a error code on screen Printer's LCD may not provide enough data to identify the problem. Also, each make and model may have different error codes. Therefore, to interpret the code you must read the manual of your model in the troubleshooting section.